EATING OUT REVIEW

By Francesca Evans

Pulling into the drive at High Grange in Dalwood, we instantly knew we were in for a magical night. This it no normal dinner out – it's not just about delicious food but a feast for all the senses, served in a beautiful setting like no other.

Along with my friend Phoebe, I had been invited to try one of High Grange's signature feast nights. Once a month, these evenings take place at the East Devon home of Luke and Sara Vandore-Mackay, who moved to High Grange just before the coronavirus took hold of the UK.

The pandemic gave the family time to really think about how they wanted to share their new home and passions for good food, outdoor living and personal wellbeing with the public. 

Along with their monthly outdoor feast nights and private dining events, High Grange now offers an outdoor cookery school with fire pits, pizza oven, Ofyr and every type of Big Green Egg, alongside wellness events and classes from yoga, pilates and reiki to sound baths and breathwork.

The sumptuous five-course menu at April's feast night made the very best of local and seasonal produce, right down to the cocktail we received on arrival – a refreshing rhubarb fizz made with rhubarb grown on site at High Grange.

After a warm welcome from hosts Sarah and Luke, who was already busy on his barbecues in preparation for dinner, we were able to enjoy our drinks while exploring the High Grange grounds. 

Phoebe is a keen grow-your-own gardener so we headed straight to the vegetable patch and herb gardens, later taking in the woodland while soaking up the last few rays of sunshine. We definitely chose the perfect night, with a beautiful sunset over the rolling Devon hills adding to the magic of the evening.

Canapés were served while we wandered the gardens – Lyme Bay mackerel with horseradish and ex-dairy cheeseburger skewers (from retired dairy cows) – which were both quickly devoured… just a taste of what was to come.

With the sun sinking on the horizon, we took our seats around the beautifully decorated oak table, under canopy and fairy lights in the woodland, with sheepskin, blankets and fire pits to keep us warm. Diners should bring layers on chiller evenings but an indoor dining area is available when the weather is particularly bad.

High Grange feast nights cater for about 24 and are very much a communal dining experience. With a selection of local wines flowing – including from Dawlood Vineyard just a few minutes down the road – we were soon making friends with our fellow dinner guests (so much so we ended up sharing a taxi and going out for cocktails with one lovely couple after dinner!).

The five-course dinner menu started with purple sprouting broccoli in a flavourful herb hollandaise, using High Grange's own produce, followed by the fish course of perfectly cooked Dover sole, caught off Brixham, with samphire.

As the evening temperature began to drop, a chicken and noodle broth – brimming with flavour after being lovingly slow-cooked by Luke for three days – was just the thing to warm us. Bowls were licked and drunk dry! 

To the main event – delicious lamb from Haye Farm, near Musbury, that simply fell apart, served with Luke's crispy lamb 'bacon', early asparagus, parsnip and a wild mint and garlic sauce.

Of course, there is always space for pud, and while banana is not something I'd usually choose off a dessert menu, I was proved completely wrong with the burnt banana parfait, served with peanut butter popcorn and a fresh raspberry sorbet.

To finish the evening we enjoyed excellent coffee roasted by Goose and Badger in Bridport (I'll definitely be buying a bag on my next visit!), with High Grange fresh mint tea also on offer.

Throughout the meal, Luke was on hand to talk us through the dishes and offer his expertise, while the waiting team made us feel completely at home – High Grange is the perfect combination go high end dining in a relaxed and unique environment.

A hidden gem of Devon and a night like no other.

High Grange's signature feast nights are held monthly and cost £85 per person including cocktail on arrival.

For more details on these and other High Grange events, visit https://www.highgrangedevon.com/